When you walk into a Bo’s Coffee store, the aroma that greets you isn’t just a scent; it’s a narrative. It’s the smell of the rugged mountains of Sagada, the mist-covered peaks of Benguet, and—most iconic of all—the bold, defiant spirit of the lowland plantations in Batangas and Cavite.
Among the many varieties that define the Philippine coffee landscape, one name stands above the rest in terms of cultural lore: Barako.
In this definitive guide, we are exploring everything there is to know about Barako coffee. From its botanical roots as Coffea liberica to its 19th-century "Golden Age" and its current status as a sought-after specialty bean, we’re uncovering why this "strong man" of coffee is finally making a well-deserved comeback.
Part 1: What is Barako Coffee? (The Botany of Boldness)
To understand Barako, we must first look at the science. While the global coffee market is dominated by two species—Arabica and Robusta—Barako belongs to a much rarer third species: Coffea liberica.
The Liberica Distinction
Coffea liberica is a rarity on the global stage, accounting for less than 2% of the world's commercially traded coffee. The trees are massive, growing up to 18 meters (60 feet) tall, making them look more like forest trees than the shrub-like Arabica plants found in the highlands.
The beans themselves are physically distinct. If you hold a Barako bean next to an Arabica bean, you’ll notice:
- Size: Liberica beans are significantly larger.
- Shape: They are almond-shaped and often asymmetrical, with a distinct "hook" at one end of the central furrow.
- Aroma: Even in their green (unroasted) state, Liberica beans have a pungent, floral, and woody aroma that is unmistakable.
Why "Barako"?
The name "Barako" is derived from the Filipino word barako, which translates to "wild boar" (baboy ramo). In Filipino culture, the boar is a symbol of strength, masculinity, and fearlessness.
When people started calling this coffee "Barako," they were referring to its punchy, potent flavor and high caffeine kick. It was the drink of the macho—the farmers, the laborers, and the village elders who needed a brew as tough as their daily grind. Today, the term has transcended gender, representing a sense of Filipino pride and "strong" heritage.
Part 2: The History of Barako (From Global Dominance to Near Extinction)
The story of Barako is a Shakespearean drama of rise, fall, and redemption. Many Filipinos don't realize that in the late 1800s, the Philippines was the fourth-largest coffee exporter in the world, and the "Barako" of Batangas was the star of the show.
The Spanish Introduction
Coffee was brought to the Philippines in 1740 by Spanish Franciscan friars. The first trees were planted in Lipa, Batangas. The volcanic soil of the Taal region, combined with the tropical climate, proved to be the perfect cradle for Coffea liberica.
The Golden Age (1880s)
In the 1880s, a catastrophe hit the global coffee market: Coffee Rust (Hemileia vastatrix). This fungal disease decimated coffee plantations in Brazil, Central America, and Africa. However, the Philippines remained temporarily untouched.
During this window, Lipa became the "Coffee Capital of the World." The wealth generated was so immense that it is said the aristocrats of Batangas paved their walkways with silver coins. Barako was being shipped to San Francisco, Seattle, and even parts of Europe, commanding premium prices.
The Great Collapse
The glory was short-lived. In 1889, coffee rust finally reached Philippine shores. Within two years, the industry was wiped out. Farmers burned their plantations to prevent the spread of the fungus, switching to sugar cane and coconut. Barako was relegated to backyard gardens—a "heritage" crop kept alive by families but forgotten by the global market.
Part 3: The Flavor Profile: What Does Barako Taste Like?
If Arabica is a delicate silk scarf and Robusta is a wool blanket, Barako is a leather jacket. ### The Sensory Experience
- Aroma: The first thing you notice is the scent. It is heavy, smoky, and pungent. Many describe it as "anise-like" or "reminiscent of the forest floor."
- Taste: On the palate, Barako is bold. It lacks the high acidity of Arabica. Instead, it offers deep notes of dark chocolate, toasted nuts, and a hint of jackfruit (langka). * Aftertaste: It has a long, lingering finish. The woodiness stays with you, often accompanied by a pleasant bitterness that doesn't feel "burnt" if roasted correctly.
The Caffeine Factor
While Robusta has the highest caffeine content, Barako (Liberica) actually has a relatively moderate caffeine level—often lower than Robusta but higher than many Arabicas. However, because of its dense body and intense flavor, it feels much stronger to the drinker.
Part 4: Sagada Coffee vs. Benguet Coffee vs. Barako
When searching for the "Best Philippine coffee beans," customers often get confused between the highland varieties (North) and the lowland varieties (South). Here is a breakdown to help you choose:
Feature
- Barako (Liberica)
- Sagada (Arabica)
- Benguet (Arabica/Robusta Blend)
Region
- Batangas / Cavite
- Mountain Province
- Cordillera Region
Elevation
- Lowland (300-600m)
- Highland (1,500m+)
- Highland (1,200m+)
Flavor
- Smoky, Nutty, Bold
- Floral, Fruity, Bright
- Earthy, Chocolaty, Balanced
Body
- Heavy / Syrupy
- Light / Tea-like
- Medium
Best For
- Traditional Brew, Espresso
- Pour-over, Cold Brew
- Daily Morning Cup
The Verdict: If you want a sophisticated, acidic cup with notes of berries, go for Sagada. If you want a comforting, balanced cup, go for Benguet. But if you want a soul-shaking, wake-up call that tastes like Philippine history, Barako is your only choice.
Part 5: Why Barako is Making a Comeback
For decades, Barako was seen as "old-fashioned"—something your grandfather drank with a side of pandesal. But the tides are changing.
1. The Specialty Coffee Movement
Modern coffee drinkers are tired of the "homogenized" taste of commercial chains. There is a global movement toward rare varietals. Because Liberica is so rare globally, international coffee connoisseurs are looking to the Philippines to experience this unique flavor.
2. Local Pride and Sustainability
At Bo’s Coffee, we have always championed Homegrown beans. Supporting Barako means supporting the smallholder farmers in Batangas and Cavite. By choosing Barako, we are ensuring that this heritage crop doesn't go extinct.
3. Climate Resilience
As climate change warms the planet, Arabica (which requires cool, high altitudes) is becoming harder to grow. Coffea liberica is much hardier. It can grow in hotter temperatures and is more resistant to certain pests. Farmers are once again looking at Barako as a sustainable future for Philippine agriculture.
Part 6: How to Brew Barako Like a Pro
To get the most out of your Barako beans, you have to treat them with respect. Because the beans are dense, they require specific brewing parameters.
The Traditional "Batangas" Method
In the provinces, Barako is often boiled in a pot (kaldero).
- Boil water.
- Add coarse ground Barako and brown sugar (or panutsa).
- Let it boil for a few minutes, then turn off the heat and let the grounds settle (do not stir).
- The result is a thick, syrupy "coffee mud" that is incredibly nostalgic.
The Modern Method: French Press
The French Press is the best modern way to extract the oils and heavy body of Barako.
- Ratio: 1:15 (1 gram of coffee for every 15ml of water).
- Grind: Very coarse.
- Steep Time: 4–5 minutes.
- Tip: Avoid paper filters (like V60) if you want the full Barako experience, as the paper strips away the essential oils that give Barako its signature "smoky" mouthfeel.
Part 7: Experiencing Barako at Bo's Coffee Calamba
Located in the heart of Laguna, Bo’s Coffee Calamba serves as a bridge between the metropolitan coffee culture and the heritage of the nearby Batangas plantations.
We take pride in our "Homegrown" philosophy. When you order a cup of our Philippine Origin coffee, you aren't just getting caffeine; you are supporting a supply chain that empowers Filipino farmers.
What to Pair with Barako?
To truly enjoy the Barako experience at Bo's, we recommend pairing it with:
- Classic Ensaymada: The saltiness of the cheese and the sweetness of the sugar balance the smokiness of the coffee.
- Chocolate Cake: The dark cocoa notes in our cakes amplify the chocolate undertones of the Liberica bean.
Conclusion: The Future is Barako
Barako coffee is more than just a drink; it’s a symbol of Filipino resilience. It survived the coffee rust of the 1800s, the shift to instant coffee in the 1900s, and the onslaught of global franchises in the 2000s.
Today, as we see a resurgence in local pride, Barako is reclaiming its throne. It is a bold, unapologetic, and uniquely Filipino experience.
The next time you’re looking for the best Philippine coffee beans, don't just look to the highlands. Look to the lowlands. Look to the Barako.
Visit us at Bo’s Coffee Calamba this week and taste the legend for yourself.
